ABS and ASA warp because they shrink as they cool, and the more unevenly that heat leaves the part, the harder the plastic pulls itself off the plate. Corners lift first, then layer lines split partway up tall walls. Almost every failure with these two materials traces back to temperature control, so each fix below targets one specific cause rather than guessing.

Quick Answer

Warping, corner lifting and layer splitting in ABS and ASA are all heat-loss problems. A sealed enclosure to hold cabinet heat, a bed at 100C to 110C for adhesion, and a part-cooling fan turned off or run very low together solve the large majority of cases.

Stop the Warping at the Bed

Warping starts when the first layers cool and contract faster than the rest. Set the bed to 100C to 110C and clean it with isopropyl alcohol so the plastic grips properly. A wide brim, eight to ten lines around the part, spreads the holding force and resists the lift. Slowing the first layer and disabling cooling for it gives the foundation time to bond before anything pulls.

Stop the Corners Cracking

Sharp corners concentrate stress, so they crack before flat sections do. The biggest single improvement is an enclosure that traps the heat rising off the bed and keeps the chamber warm and draught-free. Even a simple cardboard or acrylic surround makes a measurable difference. Keep your printer away from open windows and air-conditioning vents, since a cross-draught across one corner is enough to start a lift on an otherwise dialled-in print.

Stop the Layers Splitting

Layer splitting up a tall wall means the new layer is too cool to fuse to the one below. Raise the nozzle a few degrees, towards 250C to 260C for ABS, and turn the part-cooling fan down to near zero, since aggressive cooling is the usual culprit with these materials. Make sure the enclosure is doing its job, because a warm chamber keeps each layer soft enough to weld to the next as it is laid down.

Material Choice and Hardware

ASA handles outdoor UV better than ABS and tends to warp slightly less, which is worth knowing if the part lives in the sun. Both still want the same controlled environment. If your current machine is open-framed and fighting you on every ABS print, an enclosed printer from the Evetech 3D printer lineup removes most of the battle, and you can keep alcohol, spare nozzles and adhesion aids handy from the accessories best sellers.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I really need an enclosure for ABS?

For anything beyond small flat parts, yes. The enclosure holds chamber heat so corners and tall walls cool slowly and evenly, which is the single most effective fix for warping and cracking.

What bed temperature should I run?

Start at 100C and move up towards 110C if corners still lift. Pair the hot bed with a clean surface and a brim for the best grip.

Why turn off the cooling fan?

ABS and ASA need to stay warm to fuse properly. Strong part cooling chills each new layer before it bonds, which causes splitting. Run the fan at zero or very low for these materials.

My print still lifts after all this. What now?

Check for draughts first, then verify your bed is actually reaching its set temperature. A glue stick or dedicated adhesive on the plate, plus a wider brim, usually closes the gap on stubborn parts.

Tired of fighting warped corners? An enclosed machine from the Evetech 3D printer range gives ABS and ASA the stable, warm environment they need to print clean.