The ASH-S1 runs in remote, auto-temp or motherboard-sync mode, and a hub in the wrong one can look unresponsive. Board software has no effect while the remote is driving it. Checking the mode is quicker and cheaper than buying a replacement.
Buying a second hub because the first one "stopped working" is an expensive way to discover it was never broken. The AsiaHorse ASH-S1 runs in three separate modes, and a hub sitting in the wrong one can look completely unresponsive - so check the ASH-S1 mode before assuming the hardware itself has failed.
The ASH-S1 operates in remote control, auto-temp, or motherboard-sync mode, and whichever one is active decides how it reacts to input. If your board's RGB software makes no visible difference, that is normal while the hub is following its own remote rather than the motherboard - it is not evidence of a fault. Checking the mode costs a minute; a replacement hub costs around R349.
In remote mode, the hub ignores whatever the motherboard's lighting software says and follows its included remote instead, cycling through the 20 built-in presets - 10 speed, 10 brightness, and 10 effect levels, plus Color-Learning, auto-temp, and sync options. In motherboard-sync mode it hands control back to the board. If a build is set up expecting board software to drive the lighting while the hub actually sits in remote mode, nothing the software does will change anything on screen, which reads exactly like a dead unit.
Pick up the remote and press a button. If the lighting changes, the hub is alive and simply in remote mode rather than following the board - no fault exists, and no replacement is needed.
Confirm the hub's SATA power connection is actually seated before troubleshooting modes any further, since the ASH-S1 needs its own power supply before any mode will do anything at all. A loose SATA lead produces total silence regardless of which mode is selected, and it is worth checking this before assuming the electronics have failed.
Fan speed on the hub runs independently of the lighting modes, with ten speed levels and its own auto-temp option. A hub that is correctly driving fans while the lighting appears stuck is not contradicting itself - the two systems on the ASH-S1 are simply separate controls, and cable tidiness around the unit is easier with accessories from the cable solutions range.
Remote control, auto-temp, and motherboard sync - the three operating modes the product description lists for the hub.
Because board software has no visible effect while the hub is following its own remote instead, which reads as unresponsive even though nothing is broken.
Press the remote. If it changes the lighting, the hub is in remote mode rather than taking instructions from the board.
Check the SATA power connection first, since the hub needs its own power before any mode functions at all.
No. Fan speed has its own ten-level control and auto-temp option, entirely separate from whichever lighting mode is active.
Yes - a machine handed to someone else, or revisited months later, causes exactly this confusion without a quick note.
Only once power, mode, and connections have all been confirmed correct, since those three explain most apparent hub failures.
Setting up hub-controlled lighting for the first time? Browse Evetech's case accessories for hubs and mounts, and the cable solutions range for the leads that keep the wiring behind it tidy.
Remote control, auto-temp, and motherboard sync - the three operating modes the product description lists for the hub.
Because board software has no visible effect while the hub is following its own remote instead, which reads as unresponsive even though nothing is broken.
Press the remote. If it changes the lighting, the hub is in remote mode rather than taking instructions from the board.
Check the SATA power connection first, since the hub needs its own power before any mode functions at all.
No. Fan speed has its own ten-level control and auto-temp option, entirely separate from whichever lighting mode is active.
Yes - a machine handed to someone else, or revisited months later, causes exactly this confusion without a quick note.
Only once power, mode, and connections have all been confirmed correct, since those three explain most apparent hub failures.
Independent speed reporting for every fan is not something the ASH-S1 claims. Splitters generally report one fan rather than all of them, so assume grouped reporting. A stopped fan can go unnoticed in monitoring.
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Combs are part of the four-piece kit, so a separate comb purchase is usually unnecessary. AsiaHorse lists them in the box contents beside the four extensions. Open the listing and confirm that before adding a comb set to the basket at this price.
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A cable theme breaks at the connector, not the braid. Snow White runs white sleeves, white connectors and white combs. The White kit pairs white braid with black housings, and for a pure-white build that is the whole decision.
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Combs matter more on a short exposed run, not less. A brief stretch gives the eye a clear view of uneven spacing, with nowhere for a mistake to hide. One near each end keeps the strands parallel where it counts.
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Travel and infill hold up fine at 600mm/s; outer walls and small radii are where error appears. Corners load the belts hardest, so most machines drop to a slower outer-wall speed while the K1 Max, at R13,999, keeps 20000mm/s2 for the moves nobody sees.
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Gold braid and cool white lighting pull in opposite directions, since one is warm and the other is not. The clash is real but manageable. Warming the lighting slightly, or choosing the black and gold weave rather than solid gold, usually settles it.
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